Des marches de pierre montent entre les arbres verts jusqu'à la chapelle ouverte de la Crucifixion et ses trois croix sur le Kapuzinerberg.
Des marches de pierre montent entre les arbres verts jusqu'à la chapelle ouverte de la Crucifixion et ses trois croix sur le Kapuzinerberg.
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Promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg

Promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg : porte de la Linzergasse, couvent des Capucins, château au sommet, puis descente par les remparts vers la Steingasse.

Promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg

Carte 2 heures 3.9 km

Le Kapuzinerberg est la colline boisée de la ville sur la rive droite de la Salzach ; ses pentes montent directement depuis la Linzergasse et la Steingasse, face à la vieille ville. La promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg la parcourt sur 3,9 km : depuis la porte au bas de la Linzergasse, on monte devant le couvent des Capucins jusqu'au Franziskischlössl, au sommet, puis on redescend le long du vieux mur d'enceinte jusqu'au Steintor, l'ancienne porte de la ville, dans la Steingasse. Les bus urbains desservent l'arrêt Makartplatz/Theatergasse, à quelques minutes à pied du départ.

À la montée, sur le Stefan-Zweig-Weg, on passe devant les stations du chemin de croix, le buste de Stefan Zweig et celui de Mozart, puis devant deux belvédères tournés, par-delà la rivière, vers la forteresse de Hohensalzburg. La descente emprunte le Basteiweg, le long du mur d'enceinte, jusqu'à la Hettwer Bastei, puis l'Imbergstiege, qui débouche dans la Steingasse.

La marche seule demande environ 47 minutes ; avec les pauses aux points de vue, mieux vaut prévoir 2 heures. Le Stefan-Zweig-Weg est pavé, mais le Basteiweg, qui suit le mur, est étroit, avec des marches raides, et exige un pied sûr ; il ne convient pas aux poussettes. La balade se termine au Steintor, au pied de la colline. De là, on franchit la Salzach par la passerelle du Mozartsteg et on rejoint en quelques minutes la Mozartplatz et la vieille ville ; les bus urbains s'arrêtent au Mozartsteg.

Points forts du parcours
4. Couvent des Capucins
8. Vue sur la forteresse de Hohensalzburg
9. Obere Stadtaussicht
10. Franziskischlössl
13. Hettwer Bastei
15. Steintor
Autres visites
1. Franziskuspforte
2. Chemin de croix et Felixpforte
3. Vue sur la ville nouvelle
5. Mémorial Stefan Zweig
6. Buste de Mozart
7. Stefan-Zweig-Weg
11. Basteiweg
12. Belvédère sur le mur d'enceinte
14. Imbergstiege
Visite guidée gratuite
Art et culture
Exploration et détente
Spot photo
Visites
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1
L'arc de pierre brute de la Franziskuspforte, sur la Linzergasse, dont le panneau indique la montée vers le Kapuzinerberg.
L'arc de pierre brute de la Franziskuspforte, sur la Linzergasse, dont le panneau indique la montée vers le Kapuzinerberg.

1. Franziskuspforte

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La promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg quitte la Linzergasse par un haut arc en pierre de Nagelfluh, couronné des armoiries du prince-archevêque Markus Sittikus. Au-dessus, un relief de marbre de 1617 montre saint François au moment où un séraphin à six ailes lui apparaît, et l'inscription latine demande au saint de protéger sa maison et tous ceux qui y montent avec foi. En passant sous l'arc, on peut voir un tronçon de l'enceinte médiévale qui allait du rocher jusqu'à l'ancien Ostertor.

Monter par le Stefan-Zweig-Weg, pavé, jusqu'au premier virage et à la première chapelle du chemin de croix.

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Des marches de pierre montent entre les arbres verts jusqu'à la chapelle ouverte de la Crucifixion et ses trois croix sur le Kapuzinerberg.
Des marches de pierre montent entre les arbres verts jusqu'à la chapelle ouverte de la Crucifixion et ses trois croix sur le Kapuzinerberg.

2. Chemin de croix et Felixpforte

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Le prince-archevêque Wolf Dietrich a fait aménager cette voie en 1596 pour le couvent qu'il projetait au sommet. Quelque 140 ans plus tard, elle est devenue un chemin de croix : 11 chapelles et niches avec des personnages en bois peint, pour la plupart de Joseph Anton Pfaffinger. La Felixpforte, une tour-porte que Paris Lodron a fait bâtir en 1632, abrite sous sa voûte le Christ en prison ; plus haut vient la grande chapelle ouverte de la Crucifixion.

Juste après la chapelle de la Crucifixion, là où le chemin décrit une boucle sous le couvent, une petite terrasse s'ouvre à côté du sentier.

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Une terrasse paisible avec une rambarde en métal et une longue-vue donne sur les coupoles et les toits depuis le Kapuzinerberg.
Une terrasse paisible avec une rambarde en métal et une longue-vue donne sur les coupoles et les toits depuis le Kapuzinerberg.

3. Vue sur la ville nouvelle

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Cette terrasse, avec sa rambarde, son banc et son panneau d'information, tourne le dos à la vieille ville : elle regarde la ville nouvelle, sur la rive droite de la Salzach. La grande coupole est celle de l'église de la Sainte-Trinité, sur la Makartplatz, construite entre 1694 et 1702 par l'architecte baroque Fischer von Erlach ; à sa gauche, sur la rive opposée, se dresse la tour de l'église de Mülln (Müllner Kirche).

Quelques pas plus haut, le chemin atteint le couvent.

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Le monument à Stefan Zweig sur le Kapuzinerberg, une tête appuyée sur une main au sommet d'un haut pilier.
Le monument à Stefan Zweig sur le Kapuzinerberg, une tête appuyée sur une main au sommet d'un haut pilier.

5. Mémorial Stefan Zweig

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Ce buste rend hommage à l'écrivain Stefan Zweig, qui a vécu sur la colline de 1919 à 1934. Sa maison, le Paschinger Schlössl, se trouve à environ 100 mètres, et il y recevait des hôtes venus de toute l'Europe ; elle appartient à des particuliers, ne se visite pas, et on n'en voit pas grand-chose depuis le chemin. Zweig a quitté Salzbourg en 1934, après une perquisition de la police à son domicile. Le chemin porte son nom depuis les années 1950.

Monter encore un peu jusqu'à la bifurcation, où Mozart, sur un socle de pierre, domine le chemin.

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Des marches de pierre et deux poteaux surmontés de boules mènent au buste de Mozart, dans les bois du Kapuzinerberg.
Des marches de pierre et deux poteaux surmontés de boules mènent au buste de Mozart, dans les bois du Kapuzinerberg.

6. Buste de Mozart

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Un buste en plâtre a été installé ici en 1877 pour le premier festival international de musique de Salzbourg ; le bronze d'Edmund Hellmer l'a remplacé en 1881. Derrière lui se trouvait, jusqu'après la Seconde Guerre mondiale, le pavillon de jardin venu de Vienne où Mozart a composé une partie de La Flûte enchantée. Le socle cite la cantatrice Wilhelmine van Hasselt-Barth : « Jung groß - spät erkannt - nie erreicht », grand dès sa jeunesse, reconnu tard, jamais égalé.

Gravir la boucle au-dessus du buste, puis suivre vers l'est le Stefan-Zweig-Weg pavé, qui entre dans la hêtraie.

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Un chemin goudronné et paisible décrit une courbe dans un bois feuillu et ombragé du Kapuzinerberg, bordé de feuilles brunes.
Un chemin goudronné et paisible décrit une courbe dans un bois feuillu et ombragé du Kapuzinerberg, bordé de feuilles brunes.

7. Stefan-Zweig-Weg

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À part les parois rocheuses, les jardins et les maisons, le Kapuzinerberg est presque entièrement boisé, sur environ 80 hectares, dont 60 appartiennent à la ville. Ce sont surtout des hêtres communs, comme ceux qui bordent la route ici. En 1948, un chamois mâle solitaire s'est égaré jusqu'ici ; 4 ans plus tard, on lui a amené une femelle à demi apprivoisée venue de Styrie. Le couple a fondé la petite colonie qui vit toujours sur la colline, nourrie de foin et de feuilles.

Rester encore quelques minutes sur la route pavée, vers l'est, jusqu'à un court sentier latéral.

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Des marches bordées de bois descendent le long d'un vieux mur moussu, à travers un bois verdoyant du Kapuzinerberg.
Des marches bordées de bois descendent le long d'un vieux mur moussu, à travers un bois verdoyant du Kapuzinerberg.

11. Basteiweg

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Ce sentier étroit au pied du mur, c'est le Basteiweg. Sur environ 1,7 km, il suit les fortifications de Paris Lodron et contourne la colline par le sud et l'est, du Franziskischlössl à la Hettwer Bastei. Derrière le mur, les soldats du prince-archevêque empruntaient autrefois un chemin piéton aux escaliers parfois très raides. Pendant des décennies, les Salzbourgeois ont réclamé une promenade ouverte à tous ; le Stadtverein, une association locale, l'a construite grâce aux dons de la population et l'a achevée en 1932.

Descendre le long du mur jusqu'à l'angle, par d'autres escaliers en bois et devant une petite tourelle coiffée d'un toit de bois.

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La Salzach serpente vers des collines lointaines, le long de la vieille ville et de la forteresse, vue du Kapuzinerberg.
La Salzach serpente vers des collines lointaines, le long de la vieille ville et de la forteresse, vue du Kapuzinerberg.

12. Belvédère sur le mur d'enceinte

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À cet angle, la vue s'ouvre vers le sud et l'ouest, avec l'Untersberg à gauche de la forteresse. Entre 1629 et 1632, Solari a fortifié toute la colline ; le mur qui en longe les flancs sud et sud-est court sur plus de 1 800 mètres, avec 14 petites tourelles de guet à ses angles, autrefois appelées Gaffen ou Auslug, de vieux mots qui désignaient un poste d'observation.

De là, le sentier file vers l'ouest pendant environ 15 minutes, franchit trois portes et passe devant des belvédères jusqu'à un banc avec vue sur la vieille ville ; il descend ensuite en marches raides jusqu'à la Hettwer Bastei.

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L'Imbergstiege descend en courbe le Kapuzinerberg le long d'une vieille rampe en métal, bien au-dessus de toits ensoleillés.
L'Imbergstiege descend en courbe le Kapuzinerberg le long d'une vieille rampe en métal, bien au-dessus de toits ensoleillés.

14. Imbergstiege

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Un escalier est attesté ici dès 1434 ; pendant des siècles, c'était une volée de marches en bois, couverte et appuyée contre le rocher. En 1756, pendant le pèlerinage d'août, elle a cédé sous les fidèles et six personnes ont été écrasées ; une petite plaque, dans l'arc central du mur, perpétue leur souvenir. Les marches de granit datent de 1888. En descendant, on passe devant St Johann am Imberg, une petite église mentionnée pour la première fois en 1319.

En bas, un passage étroit débouche dans la Steingasse ; tourner le dos au Platzl et suivre la ruelle sur une courte distance jusqu'au Steintor.

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Et maintenant ?

La promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg prend fin au Steintor, dans la Steingasse ; la vieille ville est juste en face, sur l'autre rive de la Salzach.

Mario et Adriana contemplant la vieille ville de Salzbourg depuis le point de vue de la forteresse.

Pour continuer avec une autre balade à pied

Promenade sur le Mönchsberg
L'autre colline boisée, sur la rive opposée. Depuis le Steintor, quelques minutes suffisent pour passer la Salzach par le Mozartsteg et gagner la Mozartplatz, où commence cette balade. Elle monte sous la forteresse jusqu'au Mönchsberg et suit sa crête jusqu'à Mülln, avec cette fois le Kapuzinerberg de l'autre côté du panorama.

Balade Saint-Pierre et quartier du Festival de Salzbourg
Passé le Mozartsteg, cette balade part du DomQuartier, sur la Residenzplatz, puis traverse l'abbaye Saint-Pierre, par son cimetière et sa cour, jusqu'au quartier du Festival.

Visite Mozart
Le buste de Mozart, sur la colline, est l'un des monuments que la ville lui consacre. Cet itinéraire le suit depuis sa maison natale, dans la Getreidegasse, jusqu'aux tombes de sa famille, dans la Linzergasse.

Espace lounge de la Steinterrasse avec coussins bleu canard, lampes décoratives et panorama sur la vieille ville de Salzbourg.

Si les grandes balades sont terminées pour aujourd'hui

Steinterrasse
On revient par la Steingasse jusqu'au Platzl, où l'Hotel Stein borde la rivière. Sa terrasse sur le toit, au 7e étage, est celle qu'on voyait en contrebas depuis la Hettwer Bastei. Nous y sommes revenus un soir pour dîner et sommes restés du coucher du soleil jusque bien après la tombée de la nuit, quand la forteresse s'illumine au-dessus de la rivière.

Résidence de Mozart
À quelques minutes de la Linzergasse, le musée de la Makartplatz occupe l'appartement de 8 pièces où la famille Mozart s'est installée en 1773. L'église de la Sainte-Trinité, aperçue depuis la terrasse sous le couvent, se dresse en haut de la même place.

Forteresse de Hohensalzburg
Depuis les belvédères tournés vers la ville, on l'a eue sous les yeux ; une fois la rivière traversée, on peut y entrer. Elle s'est développée sur son rocher à partir du 11e siècle, et à l'intérieur on accède à la cour du château, aux appartements des princes et à plusieurs musées.

Getreidegasse
Sur l'autre rive, la longue rue commerçante de la vieille ville est celle où Mozart est né, au numéro 9, le 27 janvier 1756.

Plus d'itinéraires

Tous les itinéraires à Salzbourg
Visite Mozart à Salzbourg : itinéraire à pied en autonomie
Visite Mozart à Salzbourg : itinéraire à pied en autonomie
18 étapes · 3,5 km · 2 heures
Visite Mozart à pied en autonomie : de sa maison natale et des fonts baptismaux à la résidence, au Mozarteum et aux tombes de sa famille.
Promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur à Salzbourg
Promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur à Salzbourg
17 étapes · 4,9 km · 2 h 30
Promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur en autonomie : Felsenreitschule, Mönchsberg, abbaye de Nonnberg, puis les marches de Do-Ré-Mi des jardins Mirabell.
Balade Saint-Pierre et quartier du Festival de Salzbourg
Balade Saint-Pierre et quartier du Festival de Salzbourg
17 étapes · 2,1 km · 3 heures
Balade à travers l'abbaye Saint-Pierre, son cimetière et ses catacombes jusqu'au quartier du Festival de Salzbourg, du DomQuartier à la Gstättengasse.
Promenade sur le Mönchsberg : de la Mozartplatz à Mülln
Promenade sur le Mönchsberg : de la Mozartplatz à Mülln
13 étapes · 3,6 km · 2 heures
Promenade sur le Mönchsberg depuis la Mozartplatz : abbaye de Nonnberg, forteresse, crête et belvédères, puis descente vers l'Augustiner Bräu de Mülln.
Vieille ville de Salzbourg : itinéraire de visite à pied
Vieille ville de Salzbourg : itinéraire de visite à pied
19 étapes · 3,1 km · 3 heures
Balade dans la vieille ville de Salzbourg, des jardins Mirabell à la forteresse de Hohensalzburg, par la Getreidegasse, la Residenzplatz et la cathédrale.
Tous les itinéraires à Salzbourg