Vue à travers le portail en fer ouvert, en haut de l'escalier, sur le parterre des jardins Mirabell, avec Mario et Adriana sur l'allée centrale.
Vue à travers le portail en fer ouvert, en haut de l'escalier, sur le parterre des jardins Mirabell, avec Mario et Adriana sur l'allée centrale.
Laissez-vous charmer

Promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur à Salzbourg

Promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur en autonomie : Felsenreitschule, Mönchsberg, abbaye de Nonnberg, puis les marches de Do-Ré-Mi des jardins Mirabell.

Promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur à Salzbourg

Carte 2 h 30 4.9 km

C'est dans la vieille ville de Salzbourg qu'ont été tournées, au printemps 1964, nombre des scènes d'extérieur de La Mélodie du bonheur, et ces lieux se rejoignent à pied. Notre promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur se fait en autonomie et les relie en un seul parcours ; la carte de cette page indique le chemin et les 15 étapes.

Le départ se trouve dans la Hofstallgasse, devant la Felsenreitschule, la scène du Festival qui apparaît dans le film ; les bus urbains s'arrêtent à quelques pas, sur la Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz. Depuis l'abreuvoir aux chevaux, l'ascenseur monte à la terrasse Winkler, sur le Mönchsberg, puis on franchit la colline avant de descendre un long escalier jusqu'au cimetière Saint-Pierre, à l'abbaye de Nonnberg et à la Kajetanerplatz, la place du marché. De retour dans le centre, on traverse la Kapitelplatz, la Domplatz et la Residenzplatz jusqu'au Mozartsteg, on emprunte ensuite un tronçon de la Steingasse, sur l'autre rive, et on passe devant le Salzburger Marionettentheater en chemin vers les jardins Mirabell. Là, le parcours passe par l'allée couverte, les nains et la fontaine de Pégase de « Do-Ré-Mi », et s'achève sur les marches où a été tournée la fin de la chanson.

Le tracé fait 4,9 km, soit environ 59 minutes de marche ; en comptant les arrêts, il faut prévoir 2 h 30. L'ascenseur du Mönchsberg demande un billet, et les escaliers qui descendent de la colline et de l'abbaye de Nonnberg rendent le trajet pénible avec une poussette.

L'itinéraire se termine en haut des marches de Do-Ré-Mi, et plusieurs lignes de bus urbains desservent la Mirabellplatz, de l'autre côté du château Mirabell. Les lieux de tournage situés hors de la vieille ville, comme Leopoldskron, le pavillon de Hellbrunn ou l'église de Mondsee qui sert de décor au mariage, demandent un trajet en bus et ne font pas partie de cette balade.

Points forts du parcours
1. Hofstallgasse et Felsenreitschule
3. Terrasse Winkler
6. Abbaye de Nonnberg
8. Kapitelplatz
9. Domplatz et arcades de la cathédrale
10. Residenzplatz
15. Fontaine de Pégase et marches de Do-Ré-Mi
Autres visites
2. Pferdeschwemme
4. Toscaninihof
5. Cimetière Saint-Pierre et chapelle Sainte-Marguerite
7. Kajetanerplatz
11. Mozartsteg
12. Salzburger Marionettentheater
13. Tunnel de verdure
14. Jardin des Nains
Bonnes adresses à proximité
St. Peter Stiftskulinarium
Steinterrasse
Visite guidée gratuite
Art et culture
Spot photo
Visites
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Adriana, en veste en jean, s'appuie à la balustrade sculptée de la Pferdeschwemme, devant les fresques de chevaux.
Adriana, en veste en jean, s'appuie à la balustrade sculptée de la Pferdeschwemme, devant les fresques de chevaux.

2. Pferdeschwemme

Carte
Photos

Sur la Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz, la Pferdeschwemme servait à abreuver et à laver les chevaux des écuries de la cour de l'archevêque. Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach l'a conçue en 1695 ; au centre, le dompteur de chevaux sculpté par Michael Bernhard Mandl retient un cheval cabré, et le mur du fond est peint de chevaux. L'abreuvoir apparaît brièvement dans le film.

De là, suivre la Gstättengasse au pied du Mönchsberg jusqu'à l'ascenseur du numéro 13, qui monte de 60 m à travers la roche en 30 secondes.

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Adriana près du mur de pierre en haut de l'escalier de granit du Toscaninihof, les marches descendant vers la gauche à Salzbourg.
Adriana près du mur de pierre en haut de l'escalier de granit du Toscaninihof, les marches descendant vers la gauche à Salzbourg.

4. Toscaninihof

Carte
Photos Plus

Le Toscaninihof, qui porte le nom du chef d'orchestre Arturo Toscanini, s'étend derrière les salles du Festival, au pied du Mönchsberg. Dans le film, Rolf, désormais en uniforme, aborde Liesl sous le passage voûté qui mène à Saint-Pierre et lui remet un télégramme de Berlin pour son père. L'escalier que l'on vient de descendre porte le nom de Clemens Holzmeister, l'architecte du Festival, et une niche creusée dans la roche abrite la « femme dans la roche » de Stephan Balkenhol.

De là, prendre le passage vers les cours de l'abbaye Saint-Pierre, puis continuer jusqu'au cimetière.

Où manger Option
Terrasse dans la cour avec des chaises à motifs et un parasol au St. Peter Stiftskulinarium.
Terrasse dans la cour avec des chaises à motifs et un parasol au St. Peter Stiftskulinarium.

St. Peter Stiftskulinarium

Carte
Photos Plus

Au sein de l'abbaye Saint-Pierre, le St. Peter Stiftskulinarium remonte à 803 et passe pour le plus ancien restaurant d'Europe. La cuisine y est autrichienne, avec une touche méditerranéenne, et la maison compte parmi les adresses de la ville réputées pour les Salzburger Nockerl, un soufflé dont les trois sommets évoqueraient les collines qui entourent Salzbourg. L'établissement abrite notamment la salle baroque, où le Mozart Dinner Concert accompagne le repas de musique de Mozart. On s'y attable pour le déjeuner comme pour le dîner.

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5. Cimetière Saint-Pierre et chapelle Sainte-Marguerite

Carte

Le cimetière Saint-Pierre est l'un des deux plus anciens cimetières de Salzbourg encore en service, avec ses tombeaux sous arcades et ses catacombes creusées dans le Mönchsberg. Bâtie entre 1485 et 1491 au milieu des tombes, la chapelle Sainte-Marguerite fait partie des lieux du film : l'équipe de tournage y a filmé des scènes.

Monter ensuite un peu la Festungsgasse, puis prendre à gauche la Nonnberggasse, un chemin à flanc de colline qui mène à l'abbaye de Nonnberg.

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7. Kajetanerplatz

Carte

Sur la Kajetanerplatz, Maria et les enfants font leurs courses au marché pendant que résonne « My Favorite Things ». Un marché paysan s'y tient encore chaque semaine. L'église du couvent des Théatins borde un côté de la place, et Alexander von Humboldt a habité la maison d'angle en 1797 et 1798.

Revenir vers l'ouest par la Kaigasse, puis prendre la Kapitelgasse jusqu'à la Kapitelplatz.

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Le Mozartsteg sur la Salzach, la forteresse de Hohensalzburg sur la colline au-dessus de la vieille ville de Salzbourg.
Le Mozartsteg sur la Salzach, la forteresse de Hohensalzburg sur la colline au-dessus de la vieille ville de Salzbourg.

11. Mozartsteg

Carte
Photos Plus

Maria et les enfants franchissent le Mozartsteg dans le montage de leurs escapades à travers Salzbourg, sur l'air de « My Favorite Things ». La passerelle a ouvert en 1903 et elle est restée payante jusqu'en 1921. En face, la Steingasse compte parmi les plus anciennes rues de la rive droite ; c'était autrefois la route qui entrait en ville par le sud. Joseph Mohr, l'auteur du texte de « Douce nuit », a vécu au numéro 31.

Traverser ensuite l'Imbergstraße pour entrer dans la Steingasse, prendre à gauche sous le Steintor jusqu'au Platzl, remonter la Dreifaltigkeitsgasse, passer la Makartplatz et suivre la Schwarzstraße, devant le Landestheater, jusqu'au Marionettentheater.

Où manger Option
Espace lounge de la Steinterrasse avec coussins bleu canard, lampes décoratives et panorama sur la vieille ville de Salzbourg.
Espace lounge de la Steinterrasse avec coussins bleu canard, lampes décoratives et panorama sur la vieille ville de Salzbourg.

Steinterrasse

Carte
Photos Plus

Au 7e étage de l'hôtel Stein, une maison dont le cœur date du Moyen Âge, la Steinterrasse réunit bar et restaurant sur le toit. De la terrasse, le regard passe la Salzach et file jusqu'à la forteresse de Hohensalzburg et aux toits de la vieille ville, à ses pieds. La cuisine porte la signature du chef Andreas Senn : des plats à partager, où les influences asiatiques et méditerranéennes côtoient des classiques plébiscités. Le matin, le petit-déjeuner est servi sur la terrasse, et le bar prépare des cocktails toute la journée, jusqu'au soir.

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12. Salzburger Marionettentheater

Carte

Entre le Landestheater et le Mozarteum, le Salzburger Marionettentheater joue avec des marionnettes à fils depuis 1913, et dans ce bâtiment depuis 1971. Le spectacle de marionnettes du film, où Maria et les enfants interprètent « The Lonely Goatherd » devant le capitaine, la baronne et l'oncle Max, fait un clin d'œil à la longue tradition de cette troupe, même si les figurines du film étaient l'œuvre des marionnettistes américains Bil et Cora Baird. Aujourd'hui, le théâtre présente sa propre version pour marionnettes de la comédie musicale de Broadway, jouée en anglais.

Revenir à la Makartplatz et entrer par le portail du jardin pour gagner le tunnel de verdure.

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13. Tunnel de verdure

Carte

Juste après l'entrée, les escrimeurs Borghèse se dressent en deux paires : ce sont des copies d'une statue antique dont Maria et les enfants imitent les poses dans « Do-Ré-Mi ». Derrière eux, à gauche, commence le tunnel de verdure, une allée couverte sous des treillages en arc, sur le côté ouest du jardin, que les enfants traversent en courant dans le film. À mi-chemin, sur la gauche, se trouve le Heckentheater, l'un des plus anciens théâtres de verdure au nord des Alpes.

Parcourir le tunnel de verdure, par l'intérieur ou en le longeant, jusqu'à son extrémité nord.

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Vue d'ensemble du Zwergerlgarten des jardins Mirabell, avec des statues baroques de nains disposées en demi-cercle sous de grands arbres.
Vue d'ensemble du Zwergerlgarten des jardins Mirabell, avec des statues baroques de nains disposées en demi-cercle sous de grands arbres.

14. Jardin des Nains

Carte
Photos

Quelques marches et un pont de bois mènent à un ancien bastion qui abrite le jardin des Nains. Ses nains, sculptés dans le marbre blanc de l'Untersberg sous le prince-archevêque Johann Ernst von Thun, forment le plus ancien jardin de nains d'Europe ; 17 des 28 statues d'origine subsistent, et on les aperçoit brièvement dans « Do-Ré-Mi ». On en fait une fois le tour, puis on revient par le même chemin. Le jardin des Nains ferme en hiver.

Repasser le pont et redescendre les marches : la fontaine de Pégase se trouve juste en face.

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Et maintenant ?

Notre promenade de La Mélodie du bonheur se termine sur les marches de Do-Ré-Mi, dans les jardins Mirabell, dernier des lieux de tournage de ce parcours, et c'est précisément ici que commence l'une de nos autres balades.

Adriana appuyée contre la rambarde aux cadenas du Makartsteg, la forteresse de Hohensalzburg en arrière-plan.

Pour continuer avec une autre balade à pied

Itinéraire de la vieille ville de Salzbourg
Il part là où s'arrête cette promenade, aux marches de Do-Ré-Mi, et traverse le centre historique jusqu'à la forteresse de Hohensalzburg : on franchit la rivière, on parcourt la Getreidegasse, on traverse la Residenzplatz, puis on monte la Festungsgasse jusqu'à la porte de la forteresse.

Promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg
Le Kapuzinerberg, la colline boisée qui domine la Steingasse, fait l'objet d'un itinéraire à part entière. On démarre au bas de la Linzergasse, à quelques minutes de la Makartplatz, on grimpe devant le couvent des Capucins jusqu'au Franziskischlössl, puis on redescend le long de l'ancien mur d'enceinte jusqu'au Steintor, la porte franchie un peu plus tôt.

Visite Mozart
Cette balade commence sur l'autre rive, à la maison natale de Mozart dans la Getreidegasse, passe devant la cathédrale et la Résidence, franchit le Mozartsteg jusqu'à la résidence de Mozart et au château Mirabell, et se termine au cimetière Saint-Sébastien, où reposent son père et sa veuve.

Vue d'ensemble de la Salle de marbre du Château Mirabell avec ses décors baroques muraux, ses lustres et ses rangées de chaises pour les cérémonies.

Si les grandes balades sont terminées pour aujourd'hui

Château Mirabell
Juste à côté des jardins se dresse le château que le prince-archevêque Wolf Dietrich a fait construire en 1606 pour Salome Alt. À l'intérieur, un escalier bordé de putti en marbre du sculpteur Georg Raphael Donner monte vers la salle de Marbre, l'ancienne salle des banquets des archevêques.

Résidence de Mozart
C'est sur la Makartplatz, traversée plus tôt, que la famille Mozart s'est installée en 1773 dans un appartement de huit pièces. Wolfgang y a vécu jusqu'à son départ de Salzbourg, fin 1780 ; les pièces abritent aujourd'hui un musée, et son pianoforte figure parmi les objets exposés.

Linzergasse
Depuis le Platzl, l'ancienne route de Linz et de Vienne remonte la rive droite au pied du Kapuzinerberg. Paracelse a vécu au numéro 3 et, plus haut, le cimetière Saint-Sébastien a été aménagé pour le prince-archevêque Wolf Dietrich à la manière d'un campo santo italien.

Plus d'itinéraires

Tous les itinéraires à Salzbourg
Visite Mozart à Salzbourg : itinéraire à pied en autonomie
Visite Mozart à Salzbourg : itinéraire à pied en autonomie
18 étapes · 3,5 km · 2 heures
Visite Mozart à pied en autonomie : de sa maison natale et des fonts baptismaux à la résidence, au Mozarteum et aux tombes de sa famille.
Balade Saint-Pierre et quartier du Festival de Salzbourg
Balade Saint-Pierre et quartier du Festival de Salzbourg
17 étapes · 2,1 km · 3 heures
Balade à travers l'abbaye Saint-Pierre, son cimetière et ses catacombes jusqu'au quartier du Festival de Salzbourg, du DomQuartier à la Gstättengasse.
Promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg
Promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg
15 étapes · 3,9 km · 2 heures
Promenade sur le Kapuzinerberg : porte de la Linzergasse, couvent des Capucins, château au sommet, puis descente par les remparts vers la Steingasse.
Promenade sur le Mönchsberg : de la Mozartplatz à Mülln
Promenade sur le Mönchsberg : de la Mozartplatz à Mülln
13 étapes · 3,6 km · 2 heures
Promenade sur le Mönchsberg depuis la Mozartplatz : abbaye de Nonnberg, forteresse, crête et belvédères, puis descente vers l'Augustiner Bräu de Mülln.
Vieille ville de Salzbourg : itinéraire de visite à pied
Vieille ville de Salzbourg : itinéraire de visite à pied
19 étapes · 3,1 km · 3 heures
Balade dans la vieille ville de Salzbourg, des jardins Mirabell à la forteresse de Hohensalzburg, par la Getreidegasse, la Residenzplatz et la cathédrale.
Tous les itinéraires à Salzbourg