Vista a través de la verja abierta en lo alto de la escalinata hacia el parterre de los Jardines de Mirabell, con Mario y Adriana en el camino central.
Vista a través de la verja abierta en lo alto de la escalinata hacia el parterre de los Jardines de Mirabell, con Mario y Adriana en el camino central.
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Paseo de Sonrisas y lágrimas por Salzburgo

Paseo de Sonrisas y lágrimas por libre: de la Felsenreitschule, por el Mönchsberg y la abadía de Nonnberg, a la escalinata de Do-Re-Mi de Mirabell.

Paseo de Sonrisas y lágrimas por Salzburgo

Mapa 2,5 horas 4.9 km

En el casco antiguo de Salzburgo se rodaron muchas de las escenas exteriores de Sonrisas y lágrimas en la primavera de 1964, y esos escenarios quedan a poca distancia a pie unos de otros. Nuestro paseo de Sonrisas y lágrimas se hace por libre y los enlaza en un solo trazado; el mapa de esta página marca el camino y las 15 paradas.

Empieza en la Hofstallgasse, delante de la Felsenreitschule, la sala del festival que sale en la película; los autobuses urbanos paran en la Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz, a unos pasos. Desde el abrevadero de caballos, el ascensor te sube a la Terraza Winkler del Mönchsberg; cruzas la colina a pie y bajas por una larga escalera hacia el cementerio de San Pedro, la abadía de Nonnberg y la plaza del mercado, la Kajetanerplatz. De vuelta en el centro, atraviesas la Kapitelplatz, la Domplatz y la Residenzplatz hasta el Mozartsteg, recorres un tramo de la Steingasse en la otra orilla y pasas junto al Salzburger Marionettentheater camino de los Jardines de Mirabell. Allí la ruta incluye la pérgola, los enanos y la fuente de Pegaso de «Do-Re-Mi», y acaba en la escalinata donde se rodó el final de la canción.

La ruta tiene 4,9 km, con unos 59 minutos de caminata; contando el tiempo en las paradas, calcula 2,5 horas. Para el ascensor del Mönchsberg hace falta billete, y las escaleras que bajan de la colina y de la abadía de Nonnberg lo ponen difícil con un cochecito de bebé.

El paseo termina en lo alto de la escalinata de Do-Re-Mi, y varias líneas de autobús urbano paran en la Mirabellplatz, al otro lado del Palacio de Mirabell. Los escenarios del rodaje fuera del casco antiguo, como Leopoldskron, el cenador de Hellbrunn o la iglesia de la boda en Mondsee, quedan a un trayecto en autobús y no forman parte de este paseo.

Puntos destacados de la ruta
1. Hofstallgasse y Felsenreitschule
3. Terraza Winkler
6. Abadía de Nonnberg
8. Kapitelplatz
9. Domplatz y los arcos de la catedral
10. Residenzplatz
15. Fuente de Pegaso y escalinata de Do-Re-Mi
Otras visitas
2. Abrevadero de caballos (Pferdeschwemme)
4. Toscaninihof
5. Cementerio de San Pedro y capilla de Santa Margarita
7. Kajetanerplatz
11. Mozartsteg
12. Teatro de Marionetas de Salzburgo (Salzburger Marionettentheater)
13. Túnel de setos
14. Jardín de los Enanos
Dónde comer cerca
St. Peter Stiftskulinarium
Steinterrasse
Tour gratuito a pie
Arte y cultura
Spot fotográfico
Visitas
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Adriana, con chaqueta vaquera, se apoya en la balaustrada tallada de la Pferdeschwemme, ante los murales de caballos.
Adriana, con chaqueta vaquera, se apoya en la balaustrada tallada de la Pferdeschwemme, ante los murales de caballos.

2. Abrevadero de caballos (Pferdeschwemme)

Mapa
Fotos

En el abrevadero de caballos (Pferdeschwemme) de la Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz se daba de beber y se lavaba a los caballos del arzobispo, que salían de las caballerizas de la corte. Lo diseñó Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach en 1695; en el centro, el domador de Michael Bernhard Mandl sujeta un caballo encabritado, y la pared del fondo está pintada con caballos. El abrevadero aparece un momento en la película.

Desde aquí, sigue la Gstättengasse al pie del Mönchsberg hasta el ascensor del número 13, que te sube 60 m a través de la roca en 30 segundos.

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Adriana junto al muro de piedra en lo alto de la escalera de granito del Toscaninihof, con los peldaños descendiendo hacia la izquierda en Salzburgo.
Adriana junto al muro de piedra en lo alto de la escalera de granito del Toscaninihof, con los peldaños descendiendo hacia la izquierda en Salzburgo.

4. Toscaninihof

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Fotos Más

El Toscaninihof, bautizado en honor del director de orquesta Arturo Toscanini, queda detrás de las salas del festival, al pie del Mönchsberg. En la película, Rolf, ya de uniforme, para a Liesl en el arco que lleva a San Pedro y le entrega un telegrama de Berlín para su padre. La escalera por la que has bajado lleva el nombre del arquitecto del festival, Clemens Holzmeister, y en un nicho de la roca está la «mujer en la roca» de Stephan Balkenhol.

Desde aquí, toma el pasaje hacia los patios de la abadía de San Pedro y sigue hasta el cementerio.

Dónde comer Option
Terraza en el patio con sillas estampadas y una sombrilla en el St. Peter Stiftskulinarium.
Terraza en el patio con sillas estampadas y una sombrilla en el St. Peter Stiftskulinarium.

St. Peter Stiftskulinarium

Mapa
Fotos Más

Dentro de la abadía de San Pedro, el St. Peter Stiftskulinarium se remonta al año 803 y está considerado el restaurante más antiguo de Europa. Su cocina es austríaca con un toque mediterráneo, y la casa es una de las direcciones de la ciudad conocidas por los Salzburger Nockerl, un suflé cuyas tres puntas, según la tradición, representan las colinas que rodean Salzburgo. Uno de sus salones es la Sala Barroca, donde el Mozart Dinner Concert acompaña la comida con música de Mozart. Es un restaurante de mesa y mantel, para comer y para cenar.

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5. Cementerio de San Pedro y capilla de Santa Margarita

Mapa

El cementerio de San Pedro es uno de los 2 cementerios más antiguos de Salzburgo que siguen en uso, con tumbas bajo arcadas y catacumbas excavadas en el Mönchsberg. La capilla de Santa Margarita, levantada entre 1485 y 1491 en medio de las tumbas, es uno de los escenarios de la película: el equipo rodó allí algunas escenas.

Desde aquí, sube un corto tramo por la Festungsgasse y gira a la izquierda por la Nonnberggasse, un camino a media ladera que lleva a la abadía de Nonnberg.

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7. Kajetanerplatz

Mapa

En la Kajetanerplatz, María y los niños hacen la compra en el mercado mientras suena «My Favorite Things». Todavía hoy se instala en la plaza un mercado semanal de productores. A un lado está la iglesia del monasterio de los teatinos, y Alexander von Humboldt vivió en la casa de la esquina en 1797 y 1798.

Desde aquí, vuelve hacia el oeste por la Kaigasse y toma la Kapitelgasse hasta la Kapitelplatz.

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El Mozartsteg sobre el Salzach con la fortaleza de Hohensalzburg en la colina sobre el casco antiguo de Salzburgo.
El Mozartsteg sobre el Salzach con la fortaleza de Hohensalzburg en la colina sobre el casco antiguo de Salzburgo.

11. Mozartsteg

Mapa
Fotos Más

María y los niños cruzan el Mozartsteg en el montaje de sus excursiones por Salzburgo, con «My Favorite Things» de fondo. La pasarela se inauguró en 1903 y hasta 1921 había que pagar peaje para cruzarla. En la otra orilla, la Steingasse es una de las calles más antiguas de la margen derecha, la antigua entrada a la ciudad desde el sur; Joseph Mohr, autor de la letra de «Noche de paz», vivió en el número 31.

Desde aquí, cruza la Imbergstraße hasta la Steingasse, gira a la izquierda por el Steintor hacia el Platzl, sube por la Dreifaltigkeitsgasse, cruza la Makartplatz y sigue la Schwarzstraße, dejando atrás el Landestheater, hasta el Marionettentheater.

Dónde comer Option
Zona de asientos en la Steinterrasse con cojines turquesa, lámparas decorativas y vistas panorámicas al casco antiguo de Salzburgo.
Zona de asientos en la Steinterrasse con cojines turquesa, lámparas decorativas y vistas panorámicas al casco antiguo de Salzburgo.

Steinterrasse

Mapa
Fotos Más

En la 7.ª planta del Hotel Stein, un edificio cuyo núcleo data de la Edad Media, la Steinterrasse reúne bar y restaurante en la azotea. Desde arriba miras, al otro lado del Salzach, hacia la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg y los tejados del casco antiguo a sus pies. La cocina lleva la firma del chef Andreas Senn, con platos para compartir en los que las influencias asiáticas y mediterráneas conviven con clásicos populares. Por la mañana, el desayuno se sirve en la terraza, y la barra prepara cócteles durante todo el día y hasta la noche.

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12. Teatro de Marionetas de Salzburgo (Salzburger Marionettentheater)

Mapa

Entre el Landestheater y el Mozarteum, el Salzburger Marionettentheater lleva actuando con marionetas de hilo desde 1913, y en este edificio desde 1971. La función de títeres de la película, en la que María y los niños representan «The Lonely Goatherd» para el capitán, la baronesa y el tío Max, es un guiño a la larga tradición de esta compañía, aunque las marionetas del rodaje fueron obra de los titiriteros estadounidenses Bil y Cora Baird. Hoy el teatro pone en escena su propia versión con marionetas del musical de Broadway, interpretada en inglés.

Desde aquí, vuelve a la Makartplatz y entra por la puerta del jardín hasta el túnel de setos.

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13. Túnel de setos

Mapa

Nada más cruzar la puerta, los esgrimistas Borghese forman 2 parejas: son copias de una estatua antigua cuyas posturas imitan María y los niños en «Do-Re-Mi». Detrás de ellos, a la izquierda, empieza el túnel de setos, un paseo cubierto por una pérgola de arcos en el lado oeste del jardín, por el que corren los niños en la película. A mitad de camino, a mano izquierda, está el Heckentheater, uno de los teatros de setos más antiguos al norte de los Alpes.

Desde aquí, recorre la pérgola por dentro, o por fuera, hasta su extremo norte.

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Vista general del Zwergerlgarten en los Jardines de Mirabell, con estatuas barrocas de enanos dispuestas en semicírculo bajo árboles altos.
Vista general del Zwergerlgarten en los Jardines de Mirabell, con estatuas barrocas de enanos dispuestas en semicírculo bajo árboles altos.

14. Jardín de los Enanos

Mapa
Fotos

Un corto tramo de escalones y un puente de madera llevan a un antiguo bastión con el Jardín de los Enanos. Sus enanos, tallados en mármol blanco de Untersberg en tiempos del príncipe arzobispo Johann Ernst von Thun, forman el jardín de enanos más antiguo de Europa; se conservan 17 de los 28 originales, y se ven fugazmente en «Do-Re-Mi». Da una vuelta y regresa por el mismo camino. El Jardín de los Enanos cierra en invierno.

Desde aquí, vuelve a cruzar el puente y baja los escalones; la fuente de Pegaso está justo delante de ti.

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Destacado
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¿Adónde seguir desde aquí?

Nuestro paseo de Sonrisas y lágrimas termina en la escalinata de Do-Re-Mi de los Jardines de Mirabell, el último lugar de rodaje que recorre esta ruta, y justo aquí arranca otro de nuestros paseos.

Adriana de pie en el Makartsteg con el casco antiguo de Salzburgo y la fortaleza al fondo.

Si quieres continuar con otra ruta a pie

Ruta a pie por el centro histórico
Empieza donde acaba este paseo, en la escalinata de Do-Re-Mi, y atraviesa el centro histórico hasta la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg: pasa al otro lado del río, recorre la Getreidegasse, cruza la Residenzplatz y sube por la Festungsgasse hasta la puerta de la fortaleza.

Paseo por el Kapuzinerberg
El Kapuzinerberg, la colina boscosa sobre la Steingasse, tiene paseo propio. Parte del pie de la Linzergasse, a pocos minutos de la Makartplatz, sube junto al convento de los capuchinos hasta el Franziskischlössl y luego baja siguiendo la antigua muralla hasta el Steintor, la puerta por la que has pasado antes.

Ruta de Mozart
Este paseo sale de la otra orilla, de la Casa Natal de Mozart en la Getreidegasse, pasa por la catedral y la Residenz, cruza el Mozartsteg hacia la Residencia de Mozart y el Palacio de Mirabell y termina en el cementerio de San Sebastián, donde están enterrados su padre y su viuda.

Vista amplia de la Sala de Mármol del Palacio Mirabell con decoraciones murales, lámparas de araña y filas de sillas para ceremonias.

Si por hoy ya no quieres más rutas largas

Palacio de Mirabell
Justo al lado de los jardines está el palacio que el príncipe arzobispo Wolf Dietrich levantó en 1606 para Salome Alt. Dentro, una escalera flanqueada por putti de mármol del escultor Georg Raphael Donner sube a la Sala de Mármol, el antiguo salón de banquetes de los arzobispos.

Residencia de Mozart
En la Makartplatz, que ya has cruzado antes, la familia Mozart se instaló en 1773 en un piso de 8 estancias. Wolfgang vivió allí hasta que dejó Salzburgo a finales de 1780; hoy las salas son un museo, y entre las piezas expuestas está su pianoforte.

Linzergasse
Desde el Platzl, el antiguo camino hacia Linz y Viena sube por la orilla derecha, al pie del Kapuzinerberg. Paracelso vivió en el número 3 y, más arriba, el cementerio de San Sebastián se trazó para el príncipe arzobispo Wolf Dietrich al estilo de un campo santo italiano.

Más rutas

Todas las rutas por Salzburgo
Ruta de Mozart en Salzburgo: tour a pie por libre
Ruta de Mozart en Salzburgo: tour a pie por libre
18 paradas · 3,5 km · 2 horas
Tour de Mozart a pie, por libre: de su casa natal y su pila bautismal a la Residencia de Mozart, el Mozarteum y las tumbas familiares.
Paseo por San Pedro y el barrio del Festival de Salzburgo
Paseo por San Pedro y el barrio del Festival de Salzburgo
17 paradas · 2,1 km · 3 horas
Paseo por la Abadía de San Pedro, su cementerio y sus catacumbas hasta el barrio del Festival de Salzburgo, del DomQuartier a la Gstättengasse.
Paseo por el Kapuzinerberg
Paseo por el Kapuzinerberg
15 paradas · 3,9 km · 2 horas
Paseo por el Kapuzinerberg: de la puerta de la Linzergasse por el convento capuchino al castillo de la cima y bajada por la vieja muralla a la Steingasse.
Paseo por el Mönchsberg: de Mozartplatz a Mülln
Paseo por el Mönchsberg: de Mozartplatz a Mülln
13 paradas · 3,6 km · 2 horas
Paseo por el Mönchsberg de la Mozartplatz al Augustiner Bräu de Mülln, junto a la abadía de Nonnberg y la fortaleza, por la cresta y sus miradores.
Ruta a pie por el centro histórico de Salzburgo
Ruta a pie por el centro histórico de Salzburgo
19 paradas · 3,1 km · 3 horas
Ruta a pie por el centro histórico de Salzburgo: de los Jardines de Mirabell a Hohensalzburg, por la Getreidegasse, Residenzplatz y la catedral.
Todas las rutas por Salzburgo