Las cúpulas verdes de la Catedral de Salzburgo vistas desde arriba a pleno sol, con visitantes y una esfera dorada en la plaza.

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Paseo por San Pedro y el barrio del Festival de Salzburgo

Paseo por la Abadía de San Pedro, su cementerio y sus catacumbas hasta el barrio del Festival de Salzburgo, del DomQuartier a la Gstättengasse.

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Paseo por San Pedro y el barrio del Festival de Salzburgo

 Mapa 3 horas 2.1 km

La Abadía de San Pedro se encuentra entre la Catedral de Salzburgo y el barrio del Festival de Salzburgo, al pie de las paredes de roca del Mönchsberg. Su comunidad benedictina ha seguido viva sin interrupción desde que Ruperto la fundó en 696, y eso la convierte en el monasterio en uso más antiguo del mundo germanohablante. Durante casi 3 siglos, la abadía gobernó también la diócesis: hasta 987, su abad era a la vez obispo de Salzburgo. Este paseo sigue esa historia desde el DomQuartier Salzburg, por la Kapitelplatz, el Cementerio de San Pedro y el patio de la abadía, hasta el barrio del Festival, donde las caballerizas y la escuela de equitación de los arzobispos se convirtieron en salas del festival.

La ruta mide 2,1 km, con unos 25 minutos de caminata efectiva, y es casi llana de principio a fin. Si sumas el tiempo dentro de la catedral, las catacumbas y las iglesias y una pausa para el café, calcula unas 3 horas. Empieza en la Residenzplatz, ante la entrada principal del DomQuartier, en el número 1. La parada de autobús urbano Rathaus queda a poca distancia a pie, y los autobuses desde la estación central llegan al casco antiguo en unos 10 minutos.

El paseo incluye también 4 sitios para comer y beber: la panadería de la abadía, la Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter, en la Kapitelplatz; el St. Peter Stiftskulinarium, dentro de la abadía; el Sternbräu, y Coolinarik, en la Münzgasse. Después del Toscaninihof, la Iglesia Franciscana y la Kollegienkirche, sigues la Hofstallgasse a través del barrio del Festival hasta el Neutor, cruzas el extremo oeste de la Getreidegasse y terminas en la Gstättengasse, junto a la Iglesia de las Ursulinas, al pie del Mönchsberg. La estación inferior del ascensor del Mönchsberg queda unos 150 metros atrás, y la parada de autobús más cercana es Mönchsbergaufzug.

Si llueve, puedes pasar buena parte del recorrido bajo techo: la catedral y otras 4 iglesias quedan en el camino, y ningún tramo entre una parada y la siguiente supera los 240 metros.

Puntos destacados de la ruta

1. DomQuartier

2. Catedral de Salzburgo

3. Kapitelplatz

4. Cementerio y catacumbas de San Pedro

5. Iglesia abacial y fuente de San Pedro

8. Kollegienkirche

9. Hofstallgasse y Felsenreitschule

Otras visitas

6. Toscaninihof

7. Iglesia Franciscana

10. Abrevadero de caballos (Pferdeschwemme)

11. Neutor

12. Bürgerspital y Gstättentor

13. Gstättengasse e Iglesia de las Ursulinas

Dónde comer cerca

Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter

St. Peter Stiftskulinarium

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Destacado

Salón barroco de la Residenz de Salzburgo con paredes de damasco rojo y un fresco pintado en el techo.

1. DomQuartier

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

Por el pasaje del número 1 de la Residenzplatz entras en el DomQuartier, un único circuito de museos que une la Residenz de los príncipes-arzobispos, la catedral y la Abadía de San Pedro con una sola entrada. El recorrido termina en la abadía: la Galería Larga (Lange Galerie), de 70 metros, que hasta 1803 fue la pinacoteca de los arzobispos y donde hoy cuelgan cuadros de gran formato de la colección de San Pedro, y el museo de la abadía.

Desde aquí, pasa bajo los arcos del extremo sur de la Residenzplatz hasta la Domplatz, donde la fachada de la catedral se alza a tu izquierda.

Mesas de café bajo la arcada de piedra en la terraza del DomQuartier, sobre el casco antiguo de Salzburgo.

Escalera de caracol del DomQuartier vista desde arriba, con Adriana y Mario al pie.

Sala de conciertos de la Residenz de Salzburgo con un fortepiano y filas de sillas.

Adriana en la terraza de la cafetería del DomQuartier, con vistas a los tejados de Salzburgo.

Destacado

2. Catedral de Salzburgo

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

En la fachada de la Catedral de Salzburgo hay 4 figuras: Pedro y Pablo, con la llave y la espada; Ruperto, con su barril de sal, y Virgilio, con una maqueta de la iglesia. Ruperto fundó San Pedro y Virgilio fue uno de sus abades-obispos; los restos de ambos reposan en un relicario dentro del templo, y en su pila de bronce bautizaron a Mozart. La visita lleva aparejada una contribución al mantenimiento, y los oficios, los conciertos y el Jedermann, la obra del festival que se representa en la Domplatz, marcan su horario.

Recorre la fachada hacia el sur y pasa bajo los arcos del fondo de la Domplatz hasta la Kapitelplatz.

Adriana apoyada en un muro de piedra con las torres gemelas y la cúpula de la Catedral de Salzburgo al fondo.

Destacado

Vista panorámica de Kapitelplatz con la escultura Sphaera, edificios barrocos y la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg al fondo.

3. Kapitelplatz

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

En la Kapitelplatz, Neptuno cabalga un caballo marino en una pila de mármol, y el agua le brota al animal por los ollares. Es un abrevadero: en 1732, el príncipe-arzobispo Leopold Firmian mandó rehacer una fuente anterior para dar de beber a los caballos, y la inscripción latina dorada lleva su nombre. Al otro lado de la plaza, un hombre vestido de calle se yergue sobre una esfera dorada de 7 metros, la Sphaera de Stephan Balkenhol; la obra que forma pareja con ella te espera más adelante en este paseo.

Cruza al lado oeste de la plaza, donde gira una rueda hidráulica, y entra en el Cementerio de San Pedro.

La Kapitelschwemme con su muro de fuente barroco, sauces llorones y la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg arriba.

Escultura Sphaera a contraluz, la figura recortada contra el cielo sobre los tejados de Salzburgo.

Primer plano de las piezas de ajedrez sobredimensionadas en el tablero al aire libre de Kapitelplatz.

Vista amplia de la pila de la Kapitelschwemme reflejando la fachada barroca y la fortaleza sobre la colina.

Dónde comer Option

Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

La Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter es la panadería de la abadía, en la Kapitelplatz. A su lado, una rueda hidráulica instalada en 2006 funciona como pequeña central eléctrica y, entre otras cosas, mueve el molino de piedra de la sala delantera. La panadería trabaja bajo bóvedas antiguas, cuece su pan oscuro en horno de leña y vende directamente en el obrador, así que si llegas temprano puedes ver a los panaderos en plena faena.

Destacado

4. Cementerio y catacumbas de San Pedro

 Mapa

El Cementerio de San Pedro se remonta a la Antigüedad tardía, así que es anterior a la abadía, y sus tumbas se agrupan en torno a la capilla de Santa Margarita (Margarethenkapelle), de gótico tardío. Junto a las arcadas de las criptas, las llamadas catacumbas se adentran en el Mönchsberg: son cuevas excavadas en la roca como eremitorios, que solo desde el siglo XVII reciben el nombre de catacumbas. Unas escaleras suben a la capilla de Santa Gertrudis (Gertraudenkapelle), consagrada en 1178 a Tomás Becket, y siguen hasta la capilla de San Máximo (Maximuskapelle). El cementerio tiene horario propio, y las catacumbas cobran entrada.

Atraviesa el cementerio hacia el oeste hasta el patio de la abadía, junto a la fuente que hay delante de la iglesia abacial.

Dónde comer Option

St. Peter Stiftskulinarium

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

Dentro de la abadía, el St. Peter Stiftskulinarium se remonta al año 803 y está considerado el restaurante más antiguo de Europa. Entre sus salas figura la Sala Barroca, donde el Mozart Dinner Concert acompaña la cena con su música, y el vínculo con la abadía es real: en 1769, con 13 años, Mozart compuso la Misa Dominicus para la primera misa solemne de su amigo el padre Dominicus Hagenauer, monje de esta casa que más tarde llegó a abad. Es un restaurante con servicio de mesa para comer o cenar.

Destacado

5. Iglesia abacial y fuente de San Pedro

 Mapa

En el patio de la abadía hay una fuente, y detrás se alza la iglesia abacial, románica en su núcleo, consagrada en 1147 y remodelada por dentro a partir de 1760 bajo el abad Beda Seeauer. Es la iglesia episcopal más antigua de Salzburgo, porque hasta 987 el abad de esta casa era también obispo. Sirve ante todo a la liturgia de los monjes y fija sus horas de apertura por su cuenta.

Sal del patio por el portal de su lado oeste y entra en el Toscaninihof.

Adriana junto al muro de piedra en lo alto de la escalera de granito del Toscaninihof, con los peldaños descendiendo hacia la izquierda en Salzburgo.

6. Toscaninihof

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

El Toscaninihof es la puerta trasera del barrio del Festival de Salzburgo. Un enorme portón de hierro comunica los bastidores de la Haus für Mozart con el patio, y el órgano que hay encima sonaba para el Jedermann cada vez que el mal tiempo obligaba a llevar la obra bajo techo. Busca la Mujer en la roca (Frau im Fels) de Balkenhol en un nicho de la pared rocosa, junto a la Clemens-Holzmeister-Stiege, la escalera que sube al Mönchsberg.

Sal del patio hacia el norte y gira a la derecha por la Franziskanergasse hasta la Iglesia Franciscana.

Torre y tejado de la Iglesia Franciscana de Salzburgo asomando entre los edificios del casco antiguo bajo un cielo nublado.

7. Iglesia Franciscana

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

La Iglesia Franciscana son dos edificios en uno: una nave románica en penumbra y un coro gótico tardío lleno de luz, con bóveda estrellada. Sus orígenes se atribuyen a Virgilio, el abad-obispo de San Pedro, así que probablemente es más antigua que la catedral. El altar mayor de 1709/1710, obra del arquitecto barroco Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, alberga una Virgen de Michael Pacher. Abajo, a la derecha de la puerta de entrada, está la Mano del Refugio: a quien la tocaba se le concedía asilo. Durante los oficios se interrumpen las visitas.

Sube hacia el norte por la Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse y gira a la izquierda por el pasaje del Ritzerbogen hasta la Universitätsplatz.

Destacado

8. Kollegienkirche

 Mapa

Fischer von Erlach construyó la Kollegienkirche entre 1694 y 1707 para la universidad benedictina, estrechamente ligada a San Pedro hasta su cierre en 1810. Por dentro es inusualmente alta y casi desnuda; una marca de quemadura en el suelo de mármol data de 1800, cuando las tropas de Napoleón guardaron heno aquí. En 1922, Max Reinhardt y Hugo von Hofmannsthal estrenaron en ella su Gran teatro del mundo de Salzburgo, y hoy vuelve a ser escenario del festival.

Baja por el lado oeste de la iglesia hasta la Max-Reinhardt-Platz y gira a la derecha por la Hofstallgasse.

Destacado

La Hofstallgasse en dirección al Mönchsberg cubierto de vegetación con la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg en lo alto.

9. Hofstallgasse y Felsenreitschule

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

Donde antes estaban las caballerizas de la corte arzobispal, la Hofstallgasse alinea las 3 salas del festival, la Haus für Mozart, la Felsenreitschule y la Grosses Festspielhaus, en el núcleo del barrio del Festival de Salzburgo. La Felsenreitschule nació como cantera de la catedral; en 1693 su pared de roca recibió 96 arcadas para exhibiciones ecuestres. Como faltaba madera para levantar aquí una tribuna, el primer festival representó el Jedermann en la Domplatz en 1920; en Sonrisas y lágrimas, la familia Von Trapp canta en este escenario.

Sigue hasta el final de la calle, donde el abrevadero de caballos ocupa el muro a tu izquierda.

La Hofstallgasse en Salzburgo con fachadas de edificios clásicos y la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg en la colina al fondo.

Perspectiva de la Hofstallgasse hacia el Festspielhaus de Salzburgo con su entrada en arco y su fachada clásica.

Adriana paseando por la Hofstallgasse en Salzburgo con fachadas históricas a ambos lados.

Mario y Adriana paseando juntos por la Hofstallgasse en Salzburgo.

Adriana, con chaqueta vaquera, se apoya en la balaustrada tallada de la Pferdeschwemme, ante los murales de caballos.

10. Abrevadero de caballos (Pferdeschwemme)

 Mapa

 Fotos

En el extremo del barrio del Festival, los caballos de las caballerizas de la corte se lavaban en la Pferdeschwemme, un abrevadero que el príncipe-arzobispo Johann Ernst von Thun mandó construir en la década de 1690. En el centro de la pila se alzan un domador y su caballo, y por el muro del fondo desfilan caballos pintados: frescos de la reforma de Firmian de 1732, tapados con pintura y descubiertos de nuevo a principios del siglo XX.

Camina un breve trecho hacia el suroeste hasta el portal del Neutor y vuelve después por el mismo camino.

11. Neutor

 Mapa

Desde el barrio del Festival, el Neutor atraviesa el Mönchsberg en línea recta: es un túnel construido entre 1764 y 1766 bajo el arzobispo Sigmund III von Schrattenbach, de ahí su otro nombre, Sigmundstor, y su retrato te mira desde lo alto de este portal. Los hermanos Hagenauer diseñaron los portales y tallaron los relieves en mármol del Untersberg. Como la Felsenreitschule y las catacumbas de San Pedro, es uno de los pocos monumentos labrados directamente en la roca.

Vuelve por delante del abrevadero, sal del barrio del Festival hacia el norte y sigue hasta la Bürgerspitalplatz, en el extremo oeste de la Getreidegasse.

12. Bürgerspital y Gstättentor

 Mapa

El Bürgerspital se fundó en 1327 para los vecinos enfermos y ancianos de la ciudad, y su iglesia de San Blas, construida en 1330, conserva aún su forma básica, adosada a la pared rocosa del Mönchsberg. En 1560 el hospital se amplió hacia el interior de la roca, y su patio interior está rodeado de arcadas con bóvedas de arista; en lo que fue el recinto del hospital se encuentra además el Museo del Juguete del Salzburg Museum. El antiguo Gstättentor se alza justo al lado de la iglesia.

Recorre la Getreidegasse hacia el este, gira a la izquierda por el pasaje y sigue la Griesgasse hacia el oeste hasta la Münzgasse; después toma la Gstättengasse hacia el noroeste, al pie del Mönchsberg, deja atrás la estación inferior del ascensor y llega hasta la iglesia del final.

Dónde comer Option

Sternbräu

 Mapa

Aquí aparece documentada por primera vez en 1542 una cervecería con taberna llamada Sternbräu, y Mozart pasó muchas horas en la casa, sobre todo en 1777. La elaboración de cerveza se trasladó en 1907 detrás del Neutor, y desde 2008 la casa ha vuelto a tener una Sternbier propia. Reconstruida casi por completo en 2014, sirve cocina austríaca en sus salas y salones, entre ellos el Bürgersaal con los cuadros históricos de Karl Reisenbichler, y en 3 jardines cerveceros bajo castaños.

Dónde comer Option

Coolinarik Café

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

Coolinarik, en la Münzgasse, es un café-bar urbano con tienda. La cocina sirve tablas de desayuno, Knödel caseros de patata en versión dulce y salada y platos para dietas veganas, vegetarianas, sin gluten y sin lactosa, además de café y copas para después del trabajo.

13. Gstättengasse e Iglesia de las Ursulinas

 Mapa

Las casas de la Gstättengasse se apoyan directamente en el Mönchsberg, y la roca ya se les ha venido encima alguna vez. En la madrugada del 16 de julio de 1669, un desprendimiento sepultó 13 casas, 2 iglesias y un seminario; murieron 230 personas, muchas de ellas vecinos que habían acudido a ayudar y a los que sorprendió un segundo desprendimiento. Desde 1778, la ciudad ha tenido a su servicio limpiadores de roca que retiran las piedras sueltas. La Iglesia de las Ursulinas, construida después de la catástrofe y conocida hoy como iglesia de San Marcos, lleva una placa conmemorativa. El ascensor del Mönchsberg queda unos 150 metros atrás.

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¿Adónde seguir desde aquí?

Esta ruta termina en la Gstättengasse, junto a la Iglesia de las Ursulinas, al pie del Mönchsberg y a unos 10 minutos a pie del barrio del Festival de Salzburgo. El ascensor del Mönchsberg queda unos 150 metros atrás, y arriba puedes enlazar con el siguiente paseo.

El sol bajo calienta la fachada clara tras la estatua de Mozart, de pedestal labrado, en la Mozartplatz.

Si quieres continuar con otra ruta a pie

Paseo por el Mönchsberg
Este paseo arranca en la Mozartplatz, sube junto a la Abadía de Nonnberg y por debajo de la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg, cruza el Schartentor hasta lo alto del Mönchsberg y sigue sus senderos y miradores hacia el norte, hasta la puerta del Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln. El ascensor de la Gstättengasse te sube a su terraza, junto al Museum der Moderne.

Paseo de Sonrisas y lágrimas
El punto de partida está frente a la Felsenreitschule; desde allí, el mismo ascensor sube al Mönchsberg, y la ruta termina en la escalinata de Do-Re-Mi de los Jardines de Mirabell.

Ruta de Mozart
Desde la Casa Natal de Mozart, en la Getreidegasse, esta ruta vuelve a pasar por la Hofstallgasse, San Pedro y la catedral, esta vez siguiendo la historia de Mozart. Luego cruza el Mozartsteg hacia la Residencia de Mozart y termina en el Cementerio de San Sebastián, donde están enterrados su padre y su viuda.

Vista panorámica desde el Mönchsberg sobre el casco antiguo de Salzburgo con la cúpula de la Catedral y la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg en la ladera.

Si por hoy ya no quieres más rutas largas

Mönchsberg
El MönchsbergAufzug de la Gstättengasse sube 60 metros en 30 segundos hasta el Museum der Moderne, y desde arriba la mirada vuelve sobre el casco antiguo, la catedral y la Getreidegasse.

Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln
Pasada la Iglesia de las Ursulinas, la calle continúa hasta Mülln, donde desde 1621 se ha elaborado cerveza al pie del Mönchsberg. Su Bräustübl y su jardín cervecero forman la cervecería más grande de Austria.

Getreidegasse
Al otro lado del Gstättentor, la calle comercial del casco antiguo corre hacia el este bajo vistosos rótulos gremiales que cuelgan muy por encima de tu cabeza, y por detrás sus casas dan a la calle vecina a través de pasajes con arcadas como el que tomaste para llegar al Sternbräu.

Casa Natal de Mozart
En el número 9 de la Getreidegasse, la casa donde nació Wolfgang Amadé Mozart el 27 de enero de 1756 es hoy un museo, y la continuación natural tras la abadía en la que, con 13 años, compuso la música para la primera misa solemne de su amigo Dominicus Hagenauer.