Mario y Adriana contemplando el casco antiguo de Salzburgo desde el mirador de la fortaleza.

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Paseo por el Mönchsberg: de Mozartplatz a Mülln

Paseo por el Mönchsberg de la Mozartplatz al Augustiner Bräu de Mülln, junto a la abadía de Nonnberg y la fortaleza, por la cresta y sus miradores.

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Paseo por el Mönchsberg: de Mozartplatz a Mülln

 Mapa 2 horas 3.6 km

El paseo por el Mönchsberg te lleva del centro del casco antiguo de Salzburgo a la loma boscosa que se alza a su espalda y recorre esa cresta hasta su extremo norte. Arranca en la Mozartplatz, sube por delante de la abadía de Nonnberg (Stift Nonnberg) y por debajo de la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg, cruza el Schartentor para entrar en el Mönchsberg y sigue sus caminos hacia el norte hasta la puerta del Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln. Por el camino hace un alto en los miradores: la Richterhöhe, la terraza junto al Museum der Moderne y la Humboldtterrasse. Los autobuses urbanos paran en el Mozartsteg, a poca distancia a pie de la Mozartplatz.

El paseo por el Mönchsberg mide unos 3,6 km, cerca de 43 minutos de marcha sin paradas, con alrededor de 115 m de subida y 105 m de bajada; con tiempo para los miradores, cuenta con unas 2 horas. El tramo más empinado llega pronto, de la abadía de Nonnberg hacia la fortaleza. Después, los caminos atraviesan prados y pequeños bosques a lo largo de la cresta hasta las escaleras que bajan a Mülln. Si prefieres terminar antes, el ascensor MönchsbergAufzug, junto al Museum der Moderne, te baja a la Gstättengasse en 30 segundos. El paseo acaba en Mülln, donde los autobuses paran en Landeskrankenhaus y los trenes en la estación de cercanías (S-Bahn) Mülln-Altstadt.

Puntos destacados de la ruta

1. Mozartplatz

3. Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg

8. Terraza del Museum der Moderne

Otras visitas

2. Abadía de Nonnberg

4. Schartentor

5. Richterhöhe

6. Mirador sobre el Neutor

7. Bürgerwehr y Stadtalm

9. Mirador hacia Hohensalzburg

10. Humboldtterrasse

11. Monikapforte

12. Müllner Kirche

Dónde comer cerca

Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln

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Destacado

El sol bajo calienta la fachada clara tras la estatua de Mozart, de pedestal labrado, en la Mozartplatz.

1. Mozartplatz

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

El paseo por el Mönchsberg empieza abajo, en el casco antiguo, ante la estatua de Mozart que ocupa el centro de la Mozartplatz. La figura de Ludwig Schwanthaler debía estar lista en 1841, 50 años después de la muerte del compositor, pero en el suelo apareció un mosaico romano que hubo que rescatar antes, así que se inauguró un año más tarde, en presencia de los hijos de Mozart.

Desde aquí, sal de la plaza por la Kaigasse y sube por la Nonnbergstiege, las escaleras de la derecha, hasta la abadía de Nonnberg; luego cruza el pasaje cubierto y sube los pocos escalones de la derecha hasta el cementerio, a la puerta de la iglesia de la abadía. En total son unos 7 minutos.

La estatua de bronce verde de Mozart en la Mozartplatz, enmarcada por casas pastel y cielo azul intenso.

En verano, muchos descansan en tumbonas bajo una casa con una gran ancla pintada cerca de la Mozartplatz.

Un reloj solar pintado con Virgen y Niño alegra una fachada blanca cerca de la Mozartplatz al atardecer.

La gente pasea junto a mesas de café en una callejuela de casas pastel cerca de la Mozartplatz.

2. Abadía de Nonnberg

 Mapa

La abadía de Nonnberg (Stift Nonnberg) es un convento benedictino fundado entre 711 y 715, algo por encima de la ciudad, al pie de la colina de la fortaleza. Su primera abadesa, Erentrudis, recibió sepultura en una tumba excavada en la roca, en la cripta de la iglesia; hoy sus reliquias se guardan en un relicario dentro del convento. Mucho después, una candidata que aún no era monja le dio fama: en 1926 Maria Kutschera fue enviada desde aquí a casa del barón Georg von Trapp como institutriz de uno de sus 7 hijos, y su historia se convirtió en «Sonrisas y lágrimas». Se puede entrar en la iglesia y en el cementerio, pero no en el convento.

Desde aquí, sal del cementerio por el pasaje de su extremo sur, a pocos pasos de la puerta de la iglesia, gira a la izquierda por la Nonnberggasse y rodea el recinto por fuera hasta el pasaje cubierto por el que has entrado (o vuelve sin más por donde has venido); después sigue la Nonnberggasse hacia el oeste y sube por la Festungsgasse en dirección a la fortaleza.

Destacado

Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg sobre la colina que domina el casco antiguo de Salzburgo, con el río Salzach en primer plano.

3. Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

El paseo por el Mönchsberg pasa junto a la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg sin entrar en ella. El mayor castillo íntegramente conservado de Europa Central ocupa, a tu izquierda, la cima del Festungsberg, y aquí se desvía el Hoher Weg hacia su puerta. Si quieres verla por dentro, mejor dedicarle otra visita.

Desde aquí, sigue recto, deja atrás el desvío del Hoher Weg y continúa uno o dos minutos por el Oskar-Kokoschka-Weg hasta el Schartentor.

Escultura Sphaera en la Kapitelplatz con la fortaleza de Hohensalzburg al fondo.

Adriana mirando hacia el sol desde un mirador muy por encima de los tejados de Salzburgo.

Tres armaduras medievales en vitrinas de cristal en el museo de la fortaleza.

Visitantes en la plataforma de observación de la fortaleza con escalera y panorama de Salzburgo debajo.

4. Schartentor

 Mapa

Al cruzar el Schartentor dejas la colina de la fortaleza y pasas al Mönchsberg. Algo más adelante se alza la Freyturm, una torre de origen románico levantada para vigilar la Scharte, la hondonada entre las dos colinas. El Bürgermeisterloch, el «agujero del alcalde», recuerda un camino cerrado: en 1635 el príncipe-arzobispo Paris Lodron tapió con un muro la antigua subida desde el Nonntal, y en 1863 un alcalde mandó abrirla de nuevo.

Desde aquí, sigue hacia el oeste el camino de la cresta y gira a la izquierda, pasando por el museo del agua WasserSpiegel, para subir a la Richterhöhe; son unos 7 minutos a pie.

5. Richterhöhe

 Mapa

El paseo por el Mönchsberg da una vuelta alrededor de la Richterhöhe, un mirador tranquilo con bancos. La vista se abre hacia el sur, sobre el palacio de Leopoldskron (Schloss Leopoldskron) hasta el Untersberg, y una mesa de orientación de mármol de 1908 identifica las cumbres. La Richterhöhe debe su nombre a Eduard Richter, geógrafo y alpinista. En la subida dejas a un lado el Kupelwieser-Schlössl; el escritor Peter Handke vivió 10 años en uno de sus edificios anexos.

Desde aquí, vuelve al camino principal, gira a la izquierda y sigue hacia el norte el Dr.-Ludwig-Prähauser-Weg hasta el mirador que hay sobre el Neutor; en total, unos 9 minutos.

6. Mirador sobre el Neutor

 Mapa

Bajo este mirador, un túnel atraviesa la roca: el Sigmundstor, al que los salzburgueses llaman Neutor. Se excavó en el Mönchsberg entre 1764 y 1766, bajo el príncipe-arzobispo Sigismund von Schrattenbach, para unir el casco antiguo con Riedenburg, al otro lado, y es el túnel de carretera más antiguo de Austria. Si miras hacia el centro histórico, abajo verás la Pferdeschwemme, el abrevadero de los caballos.

Desde aquí, camina un par de minutos hacia el oeste por el Dr.-Ludwig-Prähauser-Weg; a tu derecha aparecen la Bürgerwehr y la Stadtalm.

7. Bürgerwehr y Stadtalm

 Mapa

En el punto más estrecho de la cresta, una muralla con torres cruza la cima: la Bürgerwehr, que los ciudadanos de Salzburgo reforzaron y elevaron a finales de la década de 1480. Su torre nororiental, el Bürgerwehrsöller, se asoma al casco antiguo y a la Getreidegasse. Pegada a la muralla está la Stadtalm, una posada cuyo jardín tiene las mismas vistas; en 1863 abrió aquí un restaurante llamado «Zur Bürgerwehr».

Desde aquí, sigue por la carretera, que gira hacia el norte dejando atrás la muralla, y continúa hasta el Museum der Moderne.

Destacado

Amplia vista desde el Mönchsberg hacia Salzburgo con la Catedral y la Fortaleza al fondo.

8. Terraza del Museum der Moderne

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

La terraza ante el Museum der Moderne es un mirador famoso del Mönchsberg: abajo, las torres de las iglesias del casco antiguo; justo enfrente, el Kapuzinerberg. El museo, revestido de mármol del Untersberg, abrió en 2004; la torre de agua contigua es de 1892. El MönchsbergAufzug baja a través de la roca hasta la Gstättengasse en 30 segundos, la salida cómoda si quieres terminar aquí el paseo por el Mönchsberg.

Desde aquí, toma el camino hacia el norte durante unos 2 minutos hasta un mirador con barandilla de madera, a tu derecha.

Entrada del Museum der Moderne de Salzburgo con su fachada de piedra y el nombre del museo sobre las puertas de cristal.

Perfil del casco antiguo de Salzburgo con la Catedral, varios campanarios y la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg en un día despejado.

El Museum der Moderne de Salzburgo con una gran instalación artística en su fachada, escaleras de piedra y una terraza exterior en el Mönchsberg.

El boscoso Kapuzinerberg con una torre de telecomunicaciones en su cima, visto desde el Mönchsberg a través del casco antiguo.

Adriana junto a una barandilla en el Mönchsberg con la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg y los campanarios detrás de ella.

9. Mirador hacia Hohensalzburg

 Mapa

 Fotos

En este mirador, una barandilla de madera a pocos pasos del camino, la vista vuelve sobre el primer tramo del paseo por el Mönchsberg. La Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg, junto a la que has pasado antes, corona el Festungsberg por encima de los árboles, y a sus pies se levantan las torres y cúpulas de las iglesias del centro histórico.

Desde aquí, continúa hacia el norte y toma las escaleras de la derecha hasta la Humboldtterrasse; en total, unos 2 minutos.

El casco antiguo de Salzburgo y la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg vistos entre ramas colgantes desde el Mönchsberg.

10. Humboldtterrasse

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

La Humboldtterrasse se asoma sobre el Klausentor y abarca de un vistazo el casco antiguo y el Festungsberg. Nació como plataforma de artillería, el Klausenkavalier, excavada en la roca bajo Paris Lodron durante la guerra de los Treinta Años. Hoy lleva el nombre del naturalista Alexander von Humboldt. A tus pies, el Salzach pasa bajo el Müllnersteg, el Marko-Feingold-Steg (antes Makartsteg) y la Staatsbrücke.

Desde aquí, avanza hacia el norte por el camino, deja atrás el hotel Schloss Mönchstein y llega hasta la Monikapforte.

11. Monikapforte

 Mapa

La Monikapforte forma parte de la Müllner Schanze, la fortificación del extremo norte del Mönchsberg. Paris Lodron mandó construir la puerta durante la guerra de los Treinta Años, cuando Salzburgo reforzaba sus defensas ante un ataque desde el norte. Aquí el paseo por el Mönchsberg deja la cresta.

Desde aquí, baja por las escaleras hacia Mülln; al final, la Müllner Kirche queda a tu derecha.

La torre de una iglesia cerca del Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln recoge la última luz anaranjada del sol sobre unos árboles oscuros.

12. Müllner Kirche

 Mapa

 Fotos

La Müllner Kirche es una iglesia del gótico tardío consagrada en 1453, que en el siglo XVIII recibió estucos barrocos y un altar mayor de mármol rojo. En 1605 el príncipe-arzobispo Wolf Dietrich trajo de Múnich a 8 frailes agustinos para hacerse cargo de ella. Un arco sobre la Augustinergasse, terminado en 1614, les permitía pasar de su monasterio a la iglesia sin pisar la calle, y en 1621 fundaron la cervecería de al lado.

El paseo por el Mönchsberg termina aquí, en Mülln.

Dónde comer Option

Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln

 Mapa

 Fotos  Más

El Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln es una cervecería conventual en Mülln, al pie del Mönchsberg, donde se viene elaborando cerveza desde 1621. Su Bräustübl es el mayor salón cervecero de Austria, con unos 5.000 metros cuadrados en el interior y 1.400 plazas en el jardín. La cerveza sale de barriles de madera y se sirve en jarras de gres, y la comida llega de los puestos del Schmankerlgang, dispuestos como en un mercado cubierto tradicional.

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¿Adónde seguir desde aquí?

La ruta termina en Mülln, en el Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln, la cervecería conventual que los monjes agustinos fundaron en 1621.

Fachadas coloridas y letreros tradicionales a lo largo de la Getreidegasse a la luz de la mañana.

Si quieres continuar con otra ruta a pie

Ruta a pie por el centro histórico
Después del paseo por el Mönchsberg ya conoces el casco antiguo desde arriba; esta ruta te lo enseña a pie de calle. Empieza en los Jardines de Mirabell, al otro lado del Müllnersteg, sigue por la Getreidegasse, cruza la Residenzplatz y pasa junto a la Catedral de Salzburgo para subir hasta la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg.

Ruta de Mozart
Con los pies de nuevo en el casco antiguo, este paseo arranca en la Casa Natal de Mozart, en la Getreidegasse, y sigue sus huellas por delante de San Pedro y de la catedral, cruza el Mozartsteg hasta la Residencia de Mozart y llega al cementerio de San Sebastián, donde están enterrados su padre y su viuda.

Rutas a pie y free tour en Salzburgo
Nuestra página de rutas reúne, una junto a otra, los paseos por libre por la ciudad y las visitas guiadas, para que elijas el próximo recorrido sin salir de ella.

Fachadas coloridas del casco antiguo y árboles junto al Salzach, vistos desde el Müllnersteg con la Fortaleza Hohensalzburg arriba.

Si por hoy ya no quieres más rutas largas

Müllnersteg
A poca distancia a pie del jardín de la cervecería, esta pasarela cruza el Salzach de Mülln a la orilla de la Neustadt. Desde el centro del puente, el casco antiguo se extiende por la orilla del río, con la Fortaleza de Hohensalzburg detrás, sobre su colina, y cuando oscurece la fortaleza iluminada se refleja en el agua.

Bärenwirt
Cuesta abajo desde la cervecería, esta posada de Mülln lleva recibiendo clientes desde 1663. Sirve cerveza Augustiner, la cocina se ciñe a clásicos regionales como el Backhendl y los Kasnocken, y la terraza mira, al otro lado del río, al Kapuzinerberg, la colina boscosa de la ciudad en la orilla derecha.

Residencia de Mozart
Al otro lado del Müllnersteg, en la orilla derecha, el museo de la Makartplatz es el piso de 8 habitaciones al que se mudó la familia Mozart en 1773. Wolfgang vivió aquí hasta 1780. Hoy las salas guardan su pianoforte original, y una cámara acorazada del sótano conserva las cartas de la familia.